Toronto Metropolitan fashion graduates showcase bold collections at Mass Exodus 2022

With ‘Metamorphosis’ as the theme, this annual fashion show made a long-awaited return to being hosted in-person.

By: John Vo

Logo for Mass Exodus 2022

Runway shows have been making a glorious comeback to in-person venues once again. With most of this year’s fashion week holding extravagant shows in live venues, fashion lovers and industry professionals could not be more excited. For many individuals interested in the fashion industry, having the opportunity to watch models walk down the runway in stunning garments is a dream come true. One of the shows that made its return to an in-person format this year was Mass Exodus 2022 — Metamorphosis.

What is Mass Exodus?

Mass Exodus is an annual event where the graduating students of Toronto Metropolitan University’s fashion design and communication program showcase their capstone work and collections. The runway show goes alongside an installation featuring designs and multimedia pieces, all correlating to the theme chosen.

The 34th Mass Exodus exhibition took place at the Sheldon and Tracy Levy Student Learning Centre (SLC) on April 9. This is in stark contrast to last year’s show that was presented in the form of a virtual livestream. The virtual format did not fully disappear — those who could not attend the in-person show were still able to tune in for the livestream presented on YouTube. 

The whole event was a collaborative effort between the fashion program and a number of programs across The Creative School, the university’s faculty specializing in media and communication, design and the cultural industries. Mass Exodus is a part of the Live Event Supercourse I, a course providing students the opportunity to work on a high-scale fashion showcase and develop the skills necessary to work in an array of creative fields. Students from the RTA media, professional music, performance production and graphic communication management programs all assisted in various aspects to bring this gorgeous show to life.

The Theme of ‘Metamorphosis’

The theme was inspired by the idea of a metamorphosis, a term referring to a complete change in form mainly associated with insects. Mass Exodus directly places emphasis on the motif of butterflies, utilizing the delicate insect in its concept art and photoshoots. A rush of emotions and concepts come to mind when picturing butterflies and metamorphosis. The life cycle of butterflies bears resemblance to the ever-changing hurdles and growth humans face in our lives.

In addition to the theme, the show contained imagery related to nature and, in a broader sense, intended to “rekindle a sense of unity within our fashion community through the principles of decolonization, encouraging optimism, and sustainability” according to their official website.

Not only does the show’s theme immediately lure audiences in, there is an extreme amount of relevancy for the theme of metamorphosis given how the COVID-19 pandemic has changed the world’s perception. The uncertainty of the world and all its pleasures came to a head during the peak of the last two years. 

Does fashion and expressing oneself through style hold importance when the world is amid social inequities and a global health crisis? The last two years have been a transformative year for many to examine their connection to fashion and how their choices impact themselves and the world around them. The decision to have “metamorphosis” be the theme for the first in-person show since 2020 was a stroke of genius. The theme presents the opportunity to delve into the evolution of fashion during and after the pandemic with their fashion collections.

Unless you have been to past Mass Exodus’ shows, nobody could have anticipated the high level of creativity and panache embedded within this year’s runway show. 

To start, this show was a mosaic of beautiful garments worn by a great cast of models. An unfortunate reality of most runway shows is the blatant fatphobia and lack of diversity when casting models. Thankfully, we saw a diverse cast walk down the runway, all of them looking amazing in their ensembles. Hopefully, we can see mainstream fashion make strides towards inclusivity in fashion that isn’t performative or close-minded. 

The individual pieces themselves were immaculate, in concept and execution. With most high-fashion brands, their runway shows typically try to retain a sense of unity and maintain the brand’s signature DNA with all the looks. This show is a departure in the sense that this isn’t just one designer’s work but a showcase of up-and-coming youth designers. Thus, every collection contained a unique point of view and style stemming from the designers’ interests and strengths. There truly was something for everyone in this show to like.

If you have a penchant for tulle and colours, many of the looks contained those elements. Want swimwear and inspiration for summer outfits? Look no further than some of the collections here. Ballgowns and formal wear? Got it! There were even tons of looks for those interested in the avant garde and eclectic side of fashion.

I could go on for eons — but my point is this show was brimming with personality and flair. The experimentation seen here was on the level of high-level professionals working in the industry. The boldness in the collections definitely stems from the fact these are young designers experimenting and honing their craft, something that any artist or creative can relate to within their own artform. These talented individuals all made daring statements with their constructed garments they presented on the Mass Exodus runway.

Many rising trends in high fashion and modern style could be found within the looks. Not to be confused with micro-trends or fad pieces that die after a week — these were bold and timeless choices. Retro-futurism and post apocalyptic-esque fashion is a rising trend in the fashion sphere and the influence was noticeable in the designers’ collections. The use of unconventional cutouts and wide-ranging fabrics were in line with retro-futuristic fashion.

Colour wise, the show was filled to the brim with lush and vibrant colours. Jewel tones and bright hues made frequent appearances, only interspersed with a few collections rooted in neutral tones. Rather than being reliant on what is considered “trendy” in fast fashion and the general public, the designs in this show are the trend-setters using references from past decades and making it their own.

Akin to bringing a stage musical or dance showcase to life, a fashion show requires the production elements to work sufficiently and be cohesive to the desired theme and atmosphere. As previously mentioned, this runway show was helmed by students in the different The Creative School programs and their collaboration brought life into the show. A favourite was definitely the music produced by those in the professional music program that set the eclectic and modern energy of the show. The graphic design management program created the futuristic logos and projected images that surrounded the whole runway, livening up the space.

Circling back to the concept of “metamorphosis” and what it means, this show and the collections of the designers perfectly encapsulated that theme. The designers embraced their own perspectives and relationships with fashion and channeled that into the looks. Breaking down gender norms, sexuality and the state of the climate crisis were all seen here through the use of silhouettes and unconventional materials. Those themes play into metamorphosis and how the world is changing in both beneficial and detrimental ways. Especially after so much external and internal struggle during the last few years, the show still celebrates the progress made and how fashion sparks joy within us all. The playfulness of certain looks and beautiful outfits reminds us all that fashion is a powerful and always changing medium.

It would be criminal to not mention the installation paired alongside the show. Another floor of the SLC was reworked for people to take their time to walk around and partake in all the works created by the students. There was a variety of work, from magazine publications to jewelry collections to set pieces with a story. I never would have imagined seeing a garment made entirely out of paper butterflies but I can now say with absolute delight that I have. This installation was a physical manifestation of personal stories and life experiences.

Final Thoughts

Mass Exodus 2022 triumphed as a runway and installation exhibition that celebrates aspiring designers and artists. The runway show contained experimentative designs that fit with each designer’s own point of view and every production element was truly on point. It’s clear the level of time and intricate care that went into producing the show and the tenacity of the students involved should be commended. This year’s showcase felt like an ode to fashion and solidified two notions: that fashion is a powerful tool that holds true significance in our world and that runway shows are back and better than ever. 

Visit Mass Exodus’ official website to see all the information on the show, view the profiles of the designers featured and to watch the recorded livestream of the show.

Fashion Art Toronto (FAT2016)

FAT 2016 119 Fashion Art Toronto (FAT) is the fusion of art and fashion during a weeklong multi-arts event in Toronto running on April 12-16. Every day is packed with a mix up of runway shows, live performances, fashion films, art installations and photography exhibits. This year’s theme - Dress Codes, focuses on how fashion is used to construct a person’s identity. Everyday of the week each collection focuses on a sub-theme of the day. Friday's theme, Counter CODE, focused on the rejection of mainstream styles and is instead collections that are inspired by rebellion and evolution.  

Wolf N Crane

The first runway show of the night on April 15 was Wolf N Crane, a streetwear brand, by Ena Luckin. Inspired by Toronto streetwear, she showcased dresses, shirts, pants, rompers, leggings, shorts, and mini-capes in her featured line. Many of the designs included graphic prints of knives, roses, Hemp leaves and cranes.The colour palette of the pieces remained on the dark side, with mainly blacks and whites used as her bases with only minimal color added.

Neoteny Apparel

The second runway collection was created by Lex Brown showcasing her pieces from her company - Neoteny Apparel. Her collection -[Fallacy] Transitional focused on dress codes within non-creative work places. The pieces combined both modern business professional attireand the colourful prints, and cuts of fashion’s latest designs. Though the pieces stood out in their own way, there is still a conservative aspect and design to the pieces that make them office appropriate.

House of Poplyn

In the third runway show, House of Poplyn, featured many of its designs around layers of tulle and tie-dye for its theme - Dreamcatcher. Tanushree Pande, House of Poplyn’s founder, managed to embody the feminine charm and youthfulness within her pieces. The designs were a combination of both evening looks and dramatic ready to wear items. The overall colour palette remained on the fair side, with a mix up of whites, pale greens and baby blues, said to be inspired by the colours and patterns of nature.

Odrea

Andrea JungMin Oh’s featured theme for her collection was Dressing Line, which improved  the ideas from paper dolls and technical drawings. Mainly a womenswear designer, Oh’s pieces stuck to only one colour, white, throughout her entire line. The pieces were beautifully versatile and designed in such a way that the items could be worn either as evening wear or as business attire.

Nuvango

The founders Pichora and Downs of Nuvango, joined together with Fashion designer, Hillary Sampliner, to present Sampliner’s collection called Colour Theory, which explores art in motion and the body as the canvas. The designs on the collection were created from works on canvas or on a computer screen. They encompassed a wide range of designs from pops of colors to loud and eye-catching pieces that are both bold and wearable.

RiaToss-Skulptur

Ross Wirtanen is the director and choreographer of the performance-art piece called SKULPTUR. The runway transformed with the setup and execution of this piece, which was inspired by greek mythology.

Padina Bondar

Padina Bondar focused her collections around the biology of the female reproductive system. Each piece represented the different stages and a specific period in a woman’s life. The pieces displayed both modern and retro feel to their designs. Despite being wearable art projects, some of the designs could be considered evening wear with the chic and elegant designs, which present the female form for what it is.