A genderless fashion line based in Toronto fuses the traditional divide between men and womenswear into garments inclusive to all.
By Neda Madany
Leading Toronto designer, Dan Dwir creates genderless collections for his fashion brand. House of Dwir (Neda Madany/CanCulture, photos courtesy of Dan Dwir)
Dan Dwir combines avant-garde artistry with transformative tailoring to create his versatile and genderless collections.
The Swiss designer behind House of Dwir says the brand is meant to celebrate inclusivity, individualism and creativity. “The idea behind it is really so everybody can express themselves with fashion, and to style them in different ways to create a new look,” says Dwir. “Hence the creativity behind it.”
Growing up in Switzerland, Dwir studied fashion design at Haute École d’Art et Design in Geneva, where he also spent time learning French-style tailoring from Genevan tailors. Dwir left Switzerland soon after that to Chicago, where he did lots of tailoring and constructed garments for people, typically for events. “I used to do a lot of wedding gowns, custom-made garments, cocktail dresses and all that stuff.” Dwir spent two and a half years in the U.S. before coming to Toronto in 2019 and launching House of Dwir, his first ready-to-wear collection.
“It came from the fact that I was unable to find clothing that I like and enjoy,” says Dwir. The flowy and interesting fabrics that intrigued him were typically categorized as womenswear and only created to fit the traditional female body type.
Dwir began making garments for himself to expand a wardrobe better curated for him. “I started making myself pieces with silk and very flowy fabrics for shirts because I love them.” After the designs he created for himself received admiration, desire and love from others, Dwir decided to share his genderless fashion through his ready-to-wear line House of Dwir. In addition to his line, Dwir teaches and mentors aspiring designers and students in fashion.
Upon introduction, Dwir says many people confuse genderless with unisex. “For me, unisex really means that there are only two sexes,” says Dwir. “Genderless really embraces the whole spectrum of it. Genderless fashion means that anybody can wear it.”
Constructing garments that can fit everybody poses an immediate challenge when it comes to genderless clothing, an obstacle that Dwir loves. While baggy clothing might be the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of garments that can be worn by anyone, Dwir has a different approach. His experience in very precise French-style tailoring is what he uses to make his garments completely genderless. “ “I did a lot of tailoring in Geneva. I really try to find that fine line in between, in my tailoring,” says Dwir. He innovatively constructs his pieces to be versatile and completely wearable by their owner, whoever it is. He adds pockets while omitting the zipper in the crotch area of all his bottom designs, to ensure an accommodating fit for anyone. ”Women have the right to have pockets,” says Dwir, discussing the common lack of pockets in women's pants and bottoms.
All House of Dwir garments are separated into two sizes, XXS-S and M-XXL, with versatility kept in mind. “It’s really trying to have one piece that can be worn in as many sizes as possible.”
Fabric for draping, buttons, and different clips are considerations Dwir makes when creating his collections. He encourages his consumers to adjust and creatively drape his garments, allowing for individualized versions of each piece.
Dwir embraces the creativity of each of his consumers, building a connection from designer to customer. “I love people literally taking my pieces and doing something wild with them,” says Dwir. Working with stylists for photoshoots and witnessing a look come to life with his designs is a reminder to Dwir. “It really means to me that I achieved what I wanted.”For Dwir, it is about the person taking the piece and working with it, doing whatever they want with it.
All House of Dwir garments are produced in Canada, with an effort made to support local seamstresses and fabric distributors when possible. “If I have contractors, they’re all local,” Dwir says. Although most likely produced somewhere else in the world, the fabrics used in garment production come from showrooms in Canada. “It promotes the local economy here.” Dwir says by using Tencel, a branded lyocell sourced from wood and created using environmentally cautious processes, the fabrics and materials used in House of Dwir production are sustainable and eco-friendly as well.
The warm and welcoming aura of the Toronto fashion industry has been ideal for Dwir. “It’s a community, we work together,” says Dwir. In contrast, New York City, North America’s fashion capital, isn't appealing to the designer after five years in the Canadian city. “You’re just a drop of water in the ocean over there. While here you can actually be heard and make a statement,” says Dwir. “I love to be able to grow the Canadian market, the Toronto market in particular, and just be a part of it.”
Although the line does have a website, Dwir appreciates the times he can connect with his customers, hence most of House of Dwir’s sales are in person. “When I do shows or pop-ups and things like that, I really get to talk to people, that’s where the connection is really made.”
Dwir says he is disappointed at the lack of genderless representation in general fashion. He recalls that all the efforts made by several fashion houses to be more inclusive have been erased. “I had a little bit of a sad moment when I saw all the Fashion Week’s this year, for these big brands, genderless fashion was only a trend to make money,” he says.
This motivates Dwir to put in more work to represent all-inclusive and genderless fashion. “It makes me want to be even more on the scene, to do even more and to not let that go.”