By Pooja Rambaran
In 2016, Toronto was named the most multicultural city in the world by BBC Radio, and there's no doubt why that still holds true. The city boasts of over 250 ethnicities and 170 languages, with roughly half of the population identifying as a visible minority (in particular Asian, Black, Arab or Latin American), according to Toronto Global.
But Toronto's growing multicultural population goes beyond just the demographics, bleeding into the city’s culture and lifestyle. Over the years, Toronto has become a stomping ground for food innovators and food lovers alike and these unique cultures and perspectives have contributed to the city’s melting pot of a food scene, allowing it to become quite the hub for fusion cuisine.
Here’s a look into the inspiration behind one of Toronto’s biggest food trends: fusion restaurants.
Hungary Thai
Pad thai and schnitzel? Not a very common combination, but a tried and true personal favourite of many who visit Hungary Thai.
Hungary Thai's entrance sign. (CanCulture/Pooja Rambaran)
Cozy and quaint, Hungary Thai sits in the midst of the bustling Kensington Market.
About 20 years ago, Marianne Kecskeméti and her partner started Hungary Thai. With Kecskeméti handling the Hungarian dishes and her partner handling the Thai dishes, each represented their personal cultures.
“Originally, we just wanted Thai food and Hungarian food separately, but then everyone else wanted fusion so we started the fusion too,” Kecskeméti said.
Now partnerless, Kecskeméti sits in the vibrant restaurant and recalls starting the fusion of the two cuisines some three years ago.
The bar at Hungary Thai. (CanCulture/Pooja Rambaran)
Kecskeméti explained that fusion restaurants are rising in popularity because these unique combinations cannot be found anywhere else. The novelty of the cuisine brings back customers.
“If it’s good,” she added with a smile.
The Haam
A quick hop over to Entertainment District lands you at the trendy Japanese-Mexican restaurant, The Haam.
With exposed brick on one side, modern light fixtures and the bright fluorescent sign that gives you a little extra boost of confidence, The Haam brings two very distinctive flavours together.
Fluorescent sign at The Haam. (CanCulture/Pooja Rambaran)
Tristan Kwon came to Toronto from Korea 10 years ago and started working at a Japanese izakaya, a casual Japanese pub.
In 2014, he moved on to work at the Mexican restaurants Playa Cabana Hacienda and Playa Cabana Barrio Coreano before he was hired as head chef at The Haam.
“I combined these two cuisines because they are what I learned from my experience in Canada and I also like their food and culture,” Kwon said.
Camaron/Shrimp Tacos comprised of chilli shrimp, mozzarella, guac, onion, garlic mayo and queso fresco. (CanCulture/Pooja Rambaran)
Kwon believes each of the cuisines could individually appeal to a western palette, but the combination is born from all of his knowledge, skills and experience. Moreover, he wanted to express creativity and showcase a new style.
“When I create new dishes, the most important parts are their identity and character of the dishes. The taste and look of the dishes have to be something new and familiar at the same time,” Kwon said.
Samba made with yam tempura, avocado, guacamole, tortilla chips and chipotle mayo. (CanCulture/Pooja Rambaran)
Kwon has learned that it is better to consider what he would enjoy if he was the customer.
He expressed that Canada itself is multicultural and people enjoy experiencing a variety of cuisines as they are generally open-minded and respectful of the creativity.
Mother Tongue
Only a short walk away from The Haam takes you to Mother Tongue, an intimate hole-in-the-wall divided into two spaces with a restaurant on the top that continues into a moody cocktail lounge on the bottom floor that's open to customers from Thursday to Saturday.
Mother Tongue's entrance sign. (CanCulture/Pooja Rambaran)
Mother Tongue fuses Asian cuisines like Filipino, Chinese and Japanese food with North American influences.
Head chef Francis Bermejo was born and raised in Manila, Philippines, then moved to Toronto in 1997 at the age of 13.
“Chinese, Japanese and American culture and cuisine had a big influence in the Philippines and I was introduced to them as a kid growing up by trying different kinds of food,” Bermejo said.
Bermejo was familiar with and enjoyed the flavours, aromas and tastes of all the cuisines individually, but when mixed right, he loved them even more.
"An example is our bistek tataki. The technique in tataki is Japanese but the flavour profile is Filipino," Bermejo said.
Bistek tataki. (CanCulture/Pooja Rambaran)
This dish combines the tataki technique of briefly searing thinly sliced beef with the flavour profile of bistek where the beef is marinated in soy sauce and citrus juice and served with charred onions and garlic crumbs.
When Bermejo creates a new dish, he tries to focus on one ingredient, be it a vegetable, meat or fish, and decides how he would like that ingredient to be showcased in the best way possible with some supporting components.
General Tao Bao Buns made with fried chicken, lemon mayo and pickled onion. (CanCulture/Pooja Rambaran)
"Toronto is one of the most diverse cities in the world, which I think is what makes it great when it comes to different cultures coming together and embracing each other's differences," Bermejo said.
Chop & Wop Ristorante
Expanding beyond downtown Toronto, Chop & Wop Ristorante combines Italian and Portuguese cuisines in a fine dining experience all the way in Burlington.
Inside of Chop & Wop Ristorante. (Courtesy of Marco Rodrigues)
Owner and operator Marco Rodrigues is first-generation Portuguese and his partner Giovanni Falbo is second-generation Italian.
“We wanted to combine them to honour both of our families, and his nonna (grandmother) and my bisavó (great-grandmother),” Rodrigues said.
Rodrigues explained that while Italian is a very popular cuisine, Portuguese is less so.
In fact, CNN called out Portuguese cuisine’s difficulty in reaching across borders, stating it often caters mainly to Portuguese immigrants yearning for a taste of home.
However, Rodrigues and Falbo decided to combine these two cuisines because they complimented each other very well.
“An example would be our spin on a caprese salad by adding corn and a port reduction instead of balsamic. It is a Portuguese caprese and is our best selling salad,” Rodrigues said.
The unique combinations discussed are only a few of the many scattered around Toronto and even beyond the GTA.
“I think like anything, people are looking for unique experiences and fusion gives you that while still having some traditional favourites,” Rodrigues said.
As Toronto continues to grow as a multicultural city, the desire for fusion restaurants will only grow with it. These unique perspectives contributing to the city continue to spark inspiration and we can only await for the introduction of even more exciting fusion cuisines and restaurants in the future.
